Taktsang, the Tiger's Nest. Photo by Anna Griswold
Legend has it that Padmasambhava brought Buddhism to Bhutan in 746 AD via a miraculous journey on the back of a flying tigress. Upon the site of his landing at the uppermost reaches of a 3,000-foot cliff stands Taktsang, the holiest temple for the Bhutanese and a captivating destination for visitors.
Padmasambhava, also known as Guru Rinpoche (“Most Precious Teacher”), went on to vanquish spirits of the indigenous Bon religion and heal the ailing King Sindhu, who in gratitude proclaimed Buddhism the new religion of the land. To this day, its practice permeates every aspect of Bhutanese life and Guru Rinpoche is venerated with statues and painted images throughout the country. His deeds are celebrated and re-enacted annually in festivals known as tsechus, which last from three to five days and feature masked dances, religious allegorical plays and folk dances. At the renowned Paro Tsechu, an immense 18th-century thondrol (a religious picture) of Guru Rinpoche is unfurled at dawn. The rare, once-a-year display of this 91-foot by 55-foot painting is believed to bestow blessings on its viewers for a few brief hours before it is devotedly rolled up to protect it from the sun.
Since the 1970’s, Bhutan has cautiously but increasingly opened its borders to foreigners. Nowadays you can take the earthbound approach to Taktsang by walking a steep and breathtaking footpath through a deep pine forest. You can share the mesmerizing spell cast by masked dancers with Bhutanese villagers who have walked days through the countryside to attend the tsechu.
Mystery and history intertwine in this country that calls itself Druk Yul, the “Land of the Thunder Dragon.” The appellation reportedly dates from a loud peal of thunder, believed to be the voice of a dragon (“druk”), during the consecration of a new monastery in the 12th century. Thundering dragons, flying tigers, and spiritual teachers vested with supernatural powers: no wonder travel in the Himalaya holds such fascination for us pragmatic Westerners!
Guru Rimpoche painted on a roadcut in Bhutan. Photo: Anna Griswold
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